Our official tester of fragrances is Simona van Der Sandt.
During lock down Simona beavered away testing a large amount of fragrances in cold process soap and melt and pour. These are her findings below:
WINTER PASSION:
Riverlea Web Description:
Description: A clear warm winter's day with initial notes of passion fruit that evolve into mild spices and craziness.
CP: We highly recommend keeping your oil temperature (change to temperature) low at about 35°C (90°F) and hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage.
As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour.
Colour: Pale
Trace: Fast trace and discolours
HP: Fine
MP: Fine
BB: Fine
Testing Notes & Info
A warm & cosy fragrance. Beautiful passion fruit followed by sparkling notes of orange, grapefruit and crushed cranberries with a background of clove & cinnamon. A perfect fragrance for warming up cold winter nights.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: No acceleration
Ricing: No
Discolouration: Dark tan
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Excellent
Once added to the soap batter and hand-stirred there was enough time to make designs. It produced a smooth top.
FRESH LAUNDRY
Riverlea Web Description:
Description: A sun-kissed, evergreen pine fragrance.
Highly recommended for cleaning products.
TO BE TESTED IN CP
CP: We highly recommend keeping your oil tempurature (typo: temperature) low at about 35°C (90°F) and hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage.
As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour.
Colour: Medium Pale
Trace: Info to follow
HP: Fine
MP: Fine
BB: Fine
Testing Notes & Info
Fresh and clean. Smells just like a freshly washed load of laundry with a classic detergent.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: No acceleration
Ricing: No
Discolouration: None
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Excellent
Once added to soap batter it soaped beautifully without any acceleration. Perfect for intricate designs and scent retention is excellent. Overtime it mellows down to a pleasant fresh linen fragrance.
ORANGE SPICE :
Riverlea Web Description: Description: A zesty orange fragrance with mild, freshly ground pepper tones. TO BE TESTED IN CP CP: We highly recommend keeping your oil temperature low at about 35°C (90°F) and hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage. As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour. Colour: Medium Pale Orange Trace: Info to follow HP: Fine MP: Fine BB: May discolour Testing Notes & Info
This sexy and masculine fragrance oil is an intoxicating blend of citrus and spice. Clean citrus notes of orange and lemon with spicy notes of clove, pepper, and musk. Tested on 31/03/2020 Soap Recipe: 30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C) I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly. Usage rate for testing: 4% Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould. Performance in CP soap: Trace: Medium Ricing: No Discolouration: None, yellow spots when cured Scent retention after 4 weeks: Excellent This medium moving fragrance oil allows making simple swirl. Also, this was the only fragrance that caused yellow dots withing the same recipe and mixing technique, use darker colourants to combat this effect.
MADEMOISELLE:
Riverlea Web Description:
Description: An elegant, sophisticated, Grace Kelly type fragrance with a strong floral scent, and White Musk undertones.
CP: We highly recommend keeping your oil temperature low at about 35°C (90°F) and hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage.
As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour.
Colour: Pale Yellow
Trace: Very fast, recommended for one colour pour.
HP: Fine
MP: Fine
BB: Fine
Testing Notes & Info
A breathtaking floral bouquet with alluring jasmine, rose and water lilies combined with deliciously spicy orange notes and sweet musk creates a complex, deep fragrance. This sensual and intense combination definitely makes you feel like Marie Antoinette in Versailles.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: Fast
Ricing: No
Discolouration: Medium Tan
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Excellent
Once added to soap batter it set up relatively fast (just enough to mix by hand and pour). Best use for single colour or layered soap
ELEGANT GODDESS:
Riverlea Web Description:
This is a beautiful subtle floral smell with White Musk undertones, and hints of Star Jasmine.
It is the ultimate floral.
In CP: We highly temperature low at about 35°C (90°F) and Hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage.
As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour.
Colour: A pale colour.
Trace: Medium.
Testing Notes & Info
Sweet musk notes with nuances of star jasmine, white florals and lilies. Beautifully finished by spicy undertones. Absolutely sublime and ethereal, almost as being touched by angel wings.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: Medium
Ricing: No
Discolouration: None
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Excellent
Once added to the soap batter and hand-stirred there was enough time to make designs. It produced a smooth top and a little bit of soda ash.
CHERRY BLOSSOM:
Riverlea Web Description:
Description: A sweet, young, fresh talcum powder fragrance, reminiscent of the swinging 60's .
CP: We highly recommend keeping your oil temperature low at about 35°C (90°F) and hand stirring the fragrance into the soap batter at the last stage.
As always keep temps LOW and HAND stir into your soap batter at the end, after adding your colour.
Colour: Pale Yellow
Trace: Medium
HP: Fine
MP: Fine
Testing Notes & Info
Tantalising floral fragrance, with notes of sweet melon, cherry blossom, vanilla and rose. It finishes with the deep amber woodsy base note. Somewhat reminiscent of talcum powder.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: Fast, best mixed in by hand.
Ricing: No
Discolouration: Light Tan
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Moderate
Once added to soap batter it set up relatively fast (just enough to mix by hand and pour). Best use for single colour or layered soap. Once in the mould it heated up fast and gelled and displayed sweat drops.
ROSE GERANIUM:
Riverlea Web Description:
A most beautiful, delicate Rose fragrance, definitely one of our favourites.
Best in MP.
Testing Notes & Info
This fragrance oil by Riverlea is a delicate floral feminine blend. It reminds me of fresh cut roses with herbal notes of geranium coming through later on.
Tested on 31/03/2020
Soap Recipe:
30% Palm Oil, 30% Coconut Oil, 40% Sunflower Oil with 33% Lye Solution and 7% superfat at room temperature (28C)
I chose this recipe as it is light in colour and traces slowly.
Usage rate for testing: 4%
Added fragrance at emulsion and waited for trace before pouring into mould.
Performance in CP soap:
Trace: Fast, best mixed in by hand.
Ricing: No
Discolouration: None
Scent retention after 4 weeks: Faint
Once added to soap batter it set up super fast (just enough to mix by hand and pour). Best use for single colour or layered soap. Once in the mould it heated up fast and gelled